This Years List of the Top Ten Knitwear Designers

Published: 02nd March 2010
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Ioannis Dimitrousis



Dimitrousis' collections are unisex and customarily crocheted rather than knitted. Although Ioannis Dimitrousis claims his mathematical brain is responsible for his love of crochet it is if truth be told his mother who ought to get the credit! He is also known to focus on the drape and its weight in the finished outcome. In his most recent collection sequins and frills featured extensively.



Jean Paul Gaultier



The celebrated French artist is known for generously sprinkling knitwear clothing in his shows. His systems are in no way pioneering nonetheless Gaultier is a master of blending knit with additional materials. Several of his blends have integrated supple cashmere together with rough mesh for instance. His talent lies in the detail with scores of pieces looking more like works of art than high fashion.



Jennifer Lang



If you have heard of the extravagant laddering technqiue then you might well be aware that it was pioneered by Jennifer Lang. She made her name after numerous celebs began purchasing up her MA collection, a truth widely reported by the British tabloids. As a consequence she was granted a stand at LFW and a studio in Cockpit Studios. Her system was before long seen on designer catwalks including Mark Fasts and she has since taken a place designing for All Saints.

Sandra Bucklund



The human silhouette inspires Bucklund, her knitted garments is extremely 3D. She builds her structures from her own knitted fabric. The result of her effort comes from long term experimentation using her machines. Her work is a collage of knitted pieces. Her spring/summer 2010 collection was the first to go into manufacture, before everything was bespoke. One of her most famous pieces was worn by Tilda Swinton For ANOTHER MAGAZINE.



Rick Owens



Knitwear is used fairly liberally in most of Owens collections. His creations utilise quite uncomplicated systems in the construction of key garments whilst all the time being recognised as properly tailored pieces. By taking into account the tailoring of his pieces he employs various procedures to influence the knitwear, on occasion forming fresh forms and shapes. The monochrome colour palette he employs to delineate the shape of his knitwear is identified as being exclusive to him and acts as a signature in many ways. His handiwork is often fashioned in one fluid progression on his machines. As a result of this procedure Owens work consistently displays interesting and distinctive shapes and silhouettes



Ramon Gurillo



Spanish born Gurillo worked as an illustrator before opening his own design business. Under his demanding direction he uses a team of dedicated knitters and crafts people. The procedures he employs are exceptionally refined. A lot of his work features re-embellished patterns with knits crocheted on top. As a result of these technically complicated hand knits most are not transportable to machines. Gurillo focuses less on line and more on the textile and its drape. The aesthetics of the piece are plainly enhanced by the high condition of materials and yarns used by Gurillo.



Simone Shailes



The knitting industry was enraptured when Shailes presented her hand knitted collection at Central St Martins College. Her working techniques were intricate and time consuming but all in the name of modern design. The delicate methods were in contrast to her square cut jackets. Her stocky knitted cardigans and jackets ended up re-designed for Topshop and her first collection was launched. She has since been employed by Celine.



Louise Goldin



Also a Saint Martins graduate, Goldin's collections are exceedingly current. Her talent is sourcing fresh yarns with unique aesthetics and using them in creations that can be described as futuristic, quirky and edgy. In her most recent collection she has struck a balance between formed knitwear and chiffon shifts. The knitwear industry has seen a significant upsurge in the number of such designers displaying at LFW thanks in part to Goldins inspiration. She is unquestionably one to keep an eye on.



Sonia Rykiel



The humorous and light hearted nature of Rykiel's work is reflected in her knitwear designs. Her jumpers have proved extremely diserable in the main. Like Gaultier she focuses on aesthetic detail to convey her meaning.



Giles



The most acclaimed work by Giles has to be his heavy oversized knits. The nature of his three dimensional pieces might be considered to be more of an architectural statement than a garment. Giles builds his work around a figure which allows him to craft innovative feminine forms. Thickset knitwear has been attractive for several years however he pioneered the excessive thickset knitwear. Lengthy scarves were rapidly on the high street thanks to his opening up of the exaggerated knitwear arena. Heavy hats and knitted boots have been the next step on his trail. I was especially amazed Aran knitwear was not fashionable after his collection.



Peter Falconer is a writer for a number of Fashion publications the latest of which includes information on the Charlene Mullen and Mattijs Van Bergen collections.

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